Another early start, up at 4:30 again. I'm not adjusting to the time change very quickly. We don't meet our guide until 9:00 today so I have a fair bit of time to kill before we go down to breakfast. Luckily Aaron is awake as well so I don't have to try and be extra quiet.
Breakfast was an exact repeat of the day before and just as delicious. We finish up and meet our guide. We are told a good part of our day will be spent on the road so we better get moving.
I'm sure most tourists look forward to the shopping part of their trip but for me it's a pain in the ass. I'm not much of a shopper. Our guide informs us that we will be making a quick stop at the jade factory. I'm not sure what I was expecting but once we were inside it's filled with amazing sculptures. I take my time looking at everything. I'm convinced I'm taking something home with me. The dragons, the fish, the lions, and Aaron's favourite, the cabbages! At the end of the day I walk out empty handed. If I had to choose something it would have been the pair of lions that stood two and a half feet tall and would have been stunning in my garden. Maybe next time.
Our first real stop of the day is the Sacred Way. An ancient road to the Ming Tombs, it is a beautiful tree lined path flanked by the many mythical animals to protect the Emperor's actual burial site many miles away. Each animal is on both the left and the right, first in a sitting position and then standing. Being in both positions offers balance. After the animal protectors, then came the warriors, and then the ministers. The road was about 2 kilometres long in this well preserved park. It was a nice spot to just wander and we were almost the only ones there.
Back in the car, we take a more scenic route to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. At first I'm excited to see the countryside, away from the hustle of the city. My excitement very quickly turns to concern for life and limb. Our driver is an idiot! I'm pretty sure he broke every traffic law on the planet. Having been driven in the city for a couple days I was expecting the normal driving between lanes and turning without a signal type of stuff but this was ridiculous. Off the top of my head:
- speeding excessively, we never got passed once, this guy had to be first everywhere
- passing on blind corners, often to find other vehicles were (shockingly!) coming
- passing on the right in the bike lane, whether bikes were there or not. Apparently if you honk your horn they move out of the way
- straddling the centre line, I'm convinced they all pretty much drive in the centre
- driving in the shoulder
- never once stopped for pedestrians, again with the honking
- blowing through street lights
- forcing his way into traffic
I'm sure there is more, maybe I have blocked it from my mind, it was terrifying! I was white knuckling my backpack in the back seat for over an hour. The driving here is anarchy anyway but this guy takes the cake. I wanted out of that car immediately! With a different driver I would have probably enjoyed the ride. It was a windy mountainous road through small villages that beckoned to be admired.
Finally he pulls over to let us out for lunch and I consider kissing the ground as I step out of the car. We walk toward what looks like a greenhouse and I'm momentarily confused. The place is full of large trees and plants of all colours and sizes. There is even a large waterfall in the back. Our guide speaks with the lady standing at the front and we are shown to our table. Again, we are separated from the locals and segregated in the "tour" area, and we are the only ones there.
The food has been pre-ordered and comes out quickly. Kung Pao chicken, eggplant something (it was very good), sprouts and glass noodles in a wrap, and fruit. Everything was delicious.
Photo by Jillian Salus - Sacred Way
We now have to get back in the death machine to travel the last 10 minutes to the Great Wall. I'm uneasy about getting back in the car but I do it anyway, a wonder of the world awaits.
Out of the car again, our guide arranges our tickets for the cable car to the start of the trek. Originally we were going to hike up but decided against it once we saw how steep the climb was and figured we would rather spend our energy on the wall. It was the right choice. The temperature was in the 30's again and spending an hour just getting TO the wall wasn't appealing.
Tickets in hand we jump on a cable car up to the "top". It's just the top of the ride, the section of the wall we decide to hike is much higher. Once at the entrance to the wall we opt to go to the left. We are told there will be fewer people this way as it is a steeper climb. While we did encounter some people, there were no crowds. Before coming to China I had prepared myself to be with a million people at all times. So far this hasn't been the case.
Although a little hazy the views are still spectacular. We head off along the wall with excitement. It only takes us a few minutes to get away from the main area and it feels surreal. I can't believe I'm on the Great Wall of China! We walk quickly through the heat to get as far as we can before we have to turn back. The steepest part is ahead of us and we want to conquer it before turning around. It's tough, it's hot, and I'm dripping with sweat. I climb stairs that are as steep as a ladder telling myself that I can take a break at the top.
As I top the steep staircase I take in the incredible view. It only takes a moment, though, to see the young girl in the corner sitting with her head on her backpack. In another very brief moment I realize why. She's has over-exerted herself and her lunch was no longer with her. Quickly moving away from the scene of the unfortunate incident I can go back to enjoying the vista.
Originally this was our turn around point but we still had some time so decided to forge ahead. We set our new goal farther and higher. Once there it really is time to turn back to meet up with our guide. I wish we could have gone further, it is a truly spectacular experience just to be there.
The way back doesn't take very long, it's mostly downhill. The steep sections require cautious steps but go more quickly than the climb and before long we are back at the cable car to descend to the parking lot. Leaving the cable car we are aggressively accosted by merchants trying to hock their wares for a dollar. Everything was a dollar, and I'm sure of the finest quality.
Photo by Aaron Salus - Great Wall of China
Part of me is hoping that our driver has been miraculously replaced, I'm not looking forward to the ride home. I disappointingly slide into the car and hope, no pray, for the best. Once on the road I try not to look since it makes me more nervous. I'm glad to report that we didn't have an accident of any sort though I'm not sure how.
Back in Beijing our guide wants to take us to dinner early. We request that we have a few minutes to go back to the hotel and get cleaned up. A day in the muggy heat has made me sticky and gritty. Surprisingly, he seems a little put out by this. I guess an early dinner means an early night for him. Anyway, we insist and are dropped off at the hotel for a quick shower.
Dinner is world famous Peking Duck. The restaurant is only a couple of blocks from our hotel so we walk over. Our guide makes sure all the arrangements are correct and leaves us for the night. The dishes start coming out very quickly. The duck is carved table-side and we are shown how to wrap it with cucumber and leek. It's wonderful. The other dishes are beef in black bean sauce, spicy chicken and bean sprout, and the best braised cabbage I've ever had. Dessert was 'toast roll-ups' as Aaron calls them and fruit.
The walk home was welcome as we were over stuffed again. There has been so much food everywhere we go. Popping into a convenience store on the way, I pick up some bobby pins so I can wear one of my lovely scarves the next day and Aaron grabs a drink. I'm looking forward to kicking off my shoes and relaxing.
Back at the hotel, its about 7:45. I'm out of my clothes and into my PJs in no time. Once the weight of the day is released I realize just how tired I really am. I only make it to 8:00.